At floor level the plywood will need to rest on top of the steel base which happens to be almost a quarter of an inch off the ground. But there is an easy workaround, especially if you find yourself in this situation often. The stain you placed on the wall will help hide the gap.Colored putty sticks of wood filler can be used to fill in any holes or blemishes on the paneling.
Apparently I do not live in this ideal world.
I will need to use wood shims to help keep the far side of the plywood above the floor so that everything stays level. Follow the same procedure to hold the adjoining sheet of paneling, but make sure this is a small gap between the two sheets to allow for movement during seasonal changes (use a dime as a guide). That saves a ton of time for a project like this.Just in case I later decide to paint over certain walls, I made sure to sink the screw slightly below the surface. They are hidden behind a vapor barrier, but by pushing on it I can expose them and make a mark on the plywood for each screw placement on the side of the plywood.I placed the first screw about 1 inch in from the side.In an ideal world, your studs are straight. Rock on Mr. Lentz, love what you’re doing.Great tutorial. Because hanging plywood sections leaves seams between the sections of wood, we also hung up battens. This made sense simply because the plywood sheets are 8 feet long and I don’t have much of a need to cover the walls above that point.
For this tutorial I chose a section where there are two obstructions.
Basically I transfer the measurement I took earlier for the height of the electric box from the ground (shim) up starting at the bottom edge of the board and very close to the side.Make a mark at the first lower measurement, then at the upper measurement which you recorded earlier.Using the T-square I lined it up at the lower measurement..then looked to transfer the distance from the edge onto the plywood. Once you get to the end of a wall you will need to cut the sheet down to fit – or perhaps your wall wont be sheathed up to 8 feet like mine. You will start at a corner of the wall and work your way around.Estimate the number of panels needed by measuring the room circumference in feet and dividing by four. Then with the plywood sheath sitting on your foam insulation, you can make the cut.
After checking with a level I confirmed that the beam itself has a slight twist to it.
If you don’t have sawhorses, you can always just lean the boards against the wall at an angle and cut holes out that way as well. Wall sheathing is the boards that are nailed to the outside of the framing when a house is being built. Oh – for those with workshops in their garages attached to the house, make sure to refer to your local code to see if plywood is allowed. Then, using the tape measure near the bottom of the plywood board, make a mark at the width you need.Move up to the top of the board and measure the same width and make a mark. Above I placed the shim right below the electrical outlet – it’ll give an accurate height measurement since the plywood won’t touch the floor.Using the measuring tape I placed it up against the edge of the steel structural beam where the plywood will start.From there I measure out to about 3/16 of an inch from the edge of the outlet.Then make note of about 3/16 of an inch beyond the outer edge of the outlet. Install remaining molding and door trim. Now for the imperfect world scenario: make a mark at the other edge of the board where the stud is. Because we wanted the trim to stand out brighter than the walls, we left the stain on longer. Then – make a mark every 12 inches from the edge of the board. Before you begin, condition (acclimate) your panels to the room. A lot of people had issues with ‘voids’ in the plywood – that’s something you don’t want in a woodworking project. If one of the walls you are paneling has a doorway, remove the trim around the door by prying it off. Above I am using two Toughbilt sawhorses with two 2x4s as rails. So first I will explain the method used to place screws in an ideal world: use a t-square and bring it up to that first screw mark. I ended up going up a notch in price for something called ‘Sande’ plywood. These steps will also provide additional rigidity to your wall. Glad I had second thoughts!After moving the plywood on the table for better clearance, I then used the jigsaw to cut out the hole. Can’t wait to see all the beautiful leather creations that come out of your new workshop! On the bottom row of screws it’s more apparent that there’s a curve going on with my stud.For the next sheath you simply measure from the edge of the current one and repeat. I matched the saw blade width with a 5/16 drill bit.Use that drill bit right on the inside corners of the square and try to make it so the edge of the drill bit will make a hole touching the edge of the square (or whatever shape you are making).Next I fit the jigsaw blade into the hole and was about to start cutting…When I decided to take a look under the plywood and make sure I had proper clearance. As the panel makes contact with the box, an outline will be left on the panel from the lipstick or crayon. See, I grew up in the midwest where everything is relatively new.
Above it the outlet we will need to make a hole for.Just above the outlet is a steel bar that helps support the structure of the shop. Nail directly into the studs when installing your paneling over existing paneling, wallpapered walls or surfaces which will not support adhesive. With all panels in the interior space where they will be installed, stand them individually along the long edge or lay them flat with wood sticks spaced between them so that air circulates around each panel.
For all below grade applications, always use a vapor barrier between the outside walls and the studs. For your protection and that of anyone near your work area, always think about what you are going to do before you take action.Installing paneling is a lot like hanging wall paper. From researching it online it doesn’t appear to be the best type if you are building finer cabinetry, however for a wall in a workshop I think it will do quite well. Only knew sheetrocked walls until I was old enough to vote, thought that was the way the world was.
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