The top 2 new leaves shriveled & now browning.

Not saying it will kill it, just might set it back even further. I housesit for someone and she always comments when she comes back that I have cleaned up and cleaned out every one of her plants... she always has problems with various disease issues and if she would just CLEAN UP she'd have a lot less problems.

If you get mealy bugs in your house and your houseplants; second worse is spider mites; you will have a long and hard one to get that one cleaned up. I'm a newb though so was quite nervous, that is until we lifted Sid (name we gave our fiddle) out of his pot and saw A) how root bound he was and B) how the outside/top of the soil was bone dry but bottom was clumpy thick and wet and smelt awful. As you increase fertilizer strength it becomes increasingly difficult to absorb the water. That within a foot of the plant seems to do wonders for me! If it gets hot where you live in summer, and your job takes you away for a few days at a time, you might find the gritty dries out too fast.Right for now its care will be a bit different, while it's recovering. Wow,.. that was so intensive changes just in a half month.

Root shock can cause several symptoms to appear, including yellowing leaves, wilting, and stunt growth. Water the lyrata once like flushing, right? That allows you to maximize the ability of the limited soil to support a bigger plant.

In every repotting process, root hairs must be broken since they're very small and need several days to regrow. Often, caregivers of the ficus lyrata don’t know the difference between normal and abnormal leaf droopage. My guess, based on what you've offered so far is over-watering.

Last thing I noticed was the soil was SOOOO dry almost throughout. And will this force branching automatically even on a younger tree as mine? However, it is not uncommon to notice the youngest leaves starting to droop down after a few days.Often, as these grow even larger, they start to point downward and look weak. You're right that the leaning is not doing it any good, so stabilise that asap.Len, I recommended the 511 but still think it's risky to repot again now. How was he when you got home?Thanks so much for the reassuring words, Robin. The reason for not fertilizing the soil is that plain water is easier for the plant to take up.

Though repotting a plant is crucial for its health, if done incorrectly, it can be traumatic for your plants. You prune in early fall, then your tree puts on a lot of leggy growth over winter, growth you're reluctant to remove until fall.

I use that as my own reference point. I sprayed them completely "wet". I'll bet the skewer will be completely dry by then as well b/c it was quite dry when tested this morning.

Here, we will look at the five most common causes of drooping fiddle leaf fig leaves.

Not always possible but I consider it to be a good insurance from completely drying out. Not to mention, all of my fellow enthusiasts who aren't intimidated to share their experiences & post questions have given me courage to give growing a try.

Make sure not to water your Fiddle Leaf Fig again until the top 1-2 inches of soil feels dry (use your finger to test).

(I'm thinking the top of the stem holding the two newest drooping leaves should be the only pruning I perform...what are your thoughts?) This information is very helpful, too. He seems droopier and looks like he will be losing his bottom leaves. Many energy wasted.

This guide can helpRipe for some citrus fertilizer know-how? It's better to allow the plant to suffer some small amount of stress from root congestion and repot when the plant is about to be at its most robust state in the growth cycle than to repot when the plant is just trying to make it until next spring when it's at its best.
You might notice the symptoms of this stress, also known as root shock, after repotting your plant or transplanting outdoors. Might help while you're away (or while you're getting your 511 ready ;)Not meaning to ignore your leaf pruning questions, can get to that later, recovery is the first priority. Didn't watered since, two days now.1.

Too, where a poor soil makes fertilizing something of a helter skelter proposition, good soils make it monkey easy. Rake out the sides after that. However, as their leaves become drooping and wilted, you might not be able to enjoy the charm of this plant any longer.

Occasionally it can be traced entirely to growers watering with their own version of enhanced frequency; more often, it's the result of a poor soil that simply does not allow the grower to water correctly w/o the plant paying a tax in the form of diminished root health because the soil remains saturated long enough to have attained the age of majority. When you see this move it to more sun and let it dry out more in between waterings. I just fix root position and cut only the root that extremely circling, so after repot, no need to wait till it rebound to it's normal condition.On your case, the tree need to regrow root and root hair, so it will need more time to metabolism normally. But now at 7:30 (I live in Idaho in PNW) he seems to be getting droopier and I'm getting worried. I always do that after bring new stuff home I re-potted, or just repotting but I'm a noob like you so I can't say it will help but I would figure more light the better.My bulb is those Feit daylight 40 watt cfl equivalent to 150 watts they are 6500k and a whopping 2,800 lumens, on a timer for 8 hours. All this trouble so that the plant absolutely does not move while it is sending out new roots.

While outside in the summer, they need water almost daily. I am soaking it all up - thank you!

And as Al has explained many times, a plant's timing is twice as slow as ours.Len please take a moment to give it some water as soon as you're home. That's what I'm wondering- with this new 5-1-1 mix, It seems to be doing a much better job at draining water and allowing roots to breathe/grow, so I was hoping my fiddle wouldn't be sitting in water or still dealing with root rot.

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